newbee needs advise

[rooted]

Cheers for the info , ive actually found a complete car in a scrapyard , rob it blind for £100 he said , so i will , and a brucey bonus is there was a NOS front AND rear screen rubbers on the rear seat , my screen one was fubared and well rotten , just fitted the new one so we will see if it leaks . £5 for both , MAJOR BARGAIN

[rootesmadnick]

my local screen fitter had this non-setting rubber compund he sqeegued all round Myns windscreen rubber and thats cured ALL my leaks only cost me a beer as well.....

[BeJay]

can't absolutely guarentee it, but I would think the only thing they may have changed over the life of the mark III, as regards the axle might possibly have been the odd bearing spec or a different breather or such, I would've thought that any mark III back axle should, to all intents and purposes, be a straight swap, if it was me I'd go for it.

............regards, Jack.

[Dorsetflyer]

The rear axles should be the same on all MK111 Sceptres.
The only differences are in the ratios where you have either overdrive fitted, or non overdrive fitted.
The ratios for Auto versions is 3.70 : 1, and the ratios for Overdrive is 3.89 : 1.
if you do decide to fill her up as suggested in the previous post you'll need 1 3/4 pints.
Hope this helps.

[rooted]

my local screen fitter had this non-setting rubber compund he sqeegued all round Myns windscreen rubber and thats cured ALL my leaks only cost me a beer as well.....

I use roof and gutter sealant , same idea really , non setting sticky goo thats instantly waterproof and still allows the windscreen to be removed should you need to , cheap as well , ive used it for as long as i can remember and no probs so far. I also use Captain Tolleys creaping crack cure , great for those little leaks you just cant find.

[rooted]

The rear axles should be the same on all MK111 Sceptres.
The only differences are in the ratios where you have either overdrive fitted, or non overdrive fitted.
The ratios for Auto versions is 3.70 : 1, and the ratios for Overdrive is 3.89 : 1.
if you do decide to fill her up as suggested in the previous post you'll need 1 3/4 pints.
Hope this helps.

Cheers for the info , fortunately both cars are overdrive vertions so should match , havnt changed a rear axle for 20 yrs or so ( imps dont have one ) but il give it a go anyway , hope to collect it this Saturday , whereabouts in Dorset are you

[rootesmadnick]

four u-bolts...
1 brake pipe
1 handbrake cable
wheels
and 4 propshaft nuts/bolts

im sure you'll manage !!!!!

if your back brakes are ok might be worth seeinf ittheback plates can be swapped over easily so as to keep the brakes matching...

obviously go out to your car the night before and coat the brake pipes and u-bolts with penetrating oil so as to help lessen the chance of stuff shearing the next day when you do the swap

[rooted]

Mechanically il be fine ( i hope ), its my dodgy back im worried about , im sure rear axles arnt light , might rope the neighbours in for a bit of help.

[Dorsetflyer]

About twenty miles from you in Weymouth. By the way the PVHCC Membership Sec lives in Wimborne.
There are a lot of members in Dorset.

[rooted]

About twenty miles from you in Weymouth. By the way the PVHCC Membership Sec lives in Wimborne.
There are a lot of members in Dorset.

Would be great to meet up sometime if i ever get this car up and running again , IL PM you my phone no , if your ever in this area give me all call and pop in , id love an opinion on wether ive got a good or bad car

[rooted]

UPDATE , fitted the other rear axle today , quite an easy job really , the result is a wine free diff and im WELL happy , getting some slight vibration at 50mph whick i think was there before , doesnt transmit through the steering , any ideas

[Dorsetflyer]

First thing are the wheels balanced?, next does it need new engine mounts?, next does it need new gearbox mounts?. next is the propshaft properly balanced?. This will be the hardest to cure as all the UJ's will need replacing, and I think the centre bearing etc before it can be balanced.
It's a process of elimination really and it should be started with the wheels which are the easiest to get done.
Good luck.

[rooted]

It probably needs all the mounts doing to be honest , and also that little engine stabiliser mini shock adsorber thing ( where can i get one of those ) think il do all the mounts first as im planing to change the wheels and tyres , any suppliers i can go to to get parts like these from and some rear shockers as well.

[Dorsetflyer]

What I have been meaning to ask you is, the year and the colour of the car?

[rooted]

What I have been meaning to ask you is, the year and the colour of the car?

1975 AND its Tahiti blue i think ( um VERY BRIGHT ) why do you know the car , its on a YA plate ( somerset ) so fairly local to us both.